EDITOR'S NOTE: James called me yesterday (Sunday) from the top of the mountain at Whitley Gap. He was in great spirits, despite the frigid temperatures. He is becoming well known on the trail and was welcomed as a celebrity at Neels Gap. Many people are following this Blog. It has been exciting for us James. Please keep us informed. It is great, in some small way, to be part of your travels. Hap Willard 3.9.08 April 30, 2008  I packed up my gear last night as my tent and all had dried out.  I went to bed at 8 p.m. ready to get to Damascus.  I rested really well.  Up at 6 a.m.  The weather today is nice and cool and sunny.  I stopped at a giant waterfall that is just outstandingly beautiful and then there were many trails.  Not sure which one to take.  So I looked at my cell phone, I had 1 bar—I called my wife to get over my stress of being lost.  Now I am laughing at myself.  I am so close to Damascus.  I must get there healthy—that is my next goal.  About a half an hour later, I find the AT trail.    Then half way up the mountain, I cannot find the AT trail again – there are so many trails —which way do I go.  Tried one way and then the other, another hour lost; but I find the right trail.  I came up on Watauga Lake, how beautiful.  I took some pictures.  I stopped for the night at the Watauga Lake Shelter about 6:30 p.m.  I hiked 13.5 miles today, not bad for getting lost twice.  At least the weather was nice.  I only saw one hiker today.  Then about 8:30 tonight, a hiker came to the shelter to spend the night.  I will face Iron Mountain tomorrow. April 29, 2008 I am so, so glad I dug in and hiked last night to get to this hostel at Laurel Fork.  The tornados that hit Virginia played havoc on the weather here.  I am thankful I was not on the mountain last night.    It was only 35 degrees here today.  I had to resupply so I hitched a ride to the grocery store and that is all that is here—a grocery store.  I dried out my sleeping bag and washed my clothes.  I had time to write in my journal and charge up my cell.   I hate to take a 0 day when I am so closed to Damascus, but I am thankful for this hostel with the bad, bad weather.   I will be up at dawn and on my way tomorrow.  I am told I am going into snow again.  Here I come Damascus—20% of my journal will be done! April 28, 2008) It pounded the rain all night.  I had been in my tent since 7:30 pm last night. I was really ready to get moving.  Rain or no rain, out I went to break camp.  It was a cold rain all day and another careful hike with slippery rocks.  My backpack is so heavy with my wet tent weighing it down.  My target today was to get to a hostel, so I can dry out.  It was 8 pm before I reached Laurel Fork Lodge. That was 23.2 miles today.  I had no water source for the last 7 miles.  I was really thirsty when I arrived at the hostel and hungry.  I may take a 0 day tomorrow.  I am done in today. April 27, 2008 It was a nice day for hiking.  I walked with the deer; I stayed down wind so they would stay close.  They are such beautiful animals.  I feel like I am in the forest of the Lord of the Rings—high Spruce trees, pine needles a foot deep.  Nature is just undisturbed here on the trail.  I can really see the terrain changing as I get near to Virginia.  Cell phone coverage is very limited now.  The rains began about 4:30, so I quit early and I stayed outside of the Moreland Gap Shelter tonight.  Mileage only 10 miles today.   Happiness keeps You Sweet, Trials keep You Strong, Sorrows Keep You Human, Life keeps You Humble, Success Keeps You Glowing, But Only God Keeps You Going April 26, 2008 This morning I sat on top of Hump Mountain.  There were long-horned steers and horses romping around.  I had panoramic view of the world, simply amazing.  A marooned colored squirrel scampered by.  There is so much spring beauty here.  Today I came down the mountain.  Every step was important, slow hike down, jacked rocks.  I camped just past Apple House Shelter, hiked 10 miles today.  I had a hard night sleeping; my broken toes were swelled and paining.  I am one week away from Damascus—one of my goals! Katahdin here I come!. April 25, 2008 I had a great night sleep and nice shower.  Mango fixed us breakfast fit for a king.  This means I saved 2 days of food!!  Mango drove us back to Hughes Gap to finish our journey.  This was the Ultimate in Trail Magic.  Thank you, Mango!!!   Over Roan Mountain today.  This is one of the mountains that had worried me.  It was a hand to foot climb, many ledges – very dangerous.  I had to go very slow.  I went to elevation of 6,285, just an amazing view from the top.  I stopped on the top and rested, ate a little and wrote some poetry.  What a beautiful place.  The weather was turning cold and clouds were rolling in.  I had to get on my way so I can get to a shelter before it rained.  I made it to Stan Murray Shelter about 6 p.m.  The rain is just starting.    I only hiked 8.1 miles today and a very hard 8.1 miles.  My body is aching – tough hike. April 24, 2008  Last night I camped about 1 mile past Cherry Gap. It was a noisy night with lots of critters making sounds.  I broke camp at dawn. Water sources are getting scarce, so I filled up all my water bottles.  Wow!  My backpack is heavy.  I climbed some big mountains today.  I am enjoying the good weather.    As I came out of Iron Gap and there was a Trail Angel, Mango.  He had me sit down in a lawn chair—nice!!!  He served me root beer, crackers and oranges.  What a wonderful surprise.  Mango told me if I can get to Hughes Gap around 6:30, he will be coming through there about that time.  He would pick me up and take me to his home for a hot shower and a nice dinner.  He will then bring me back the Hughes Gap in the morning.    Well, I made it at 6:00 p.m. to Hughes Gap.  Mango picked me up and 2 other hikers – Mud and Retread.  He had to roll the window down on his car because we all 3 smelled pretty bad.  Mango gave me some of his clothes to wear—mine were put in a bag and kept outside.  He had no washer as this is second home for him. Mango made chili, it was delicious.  After dinner, I read Walt Whitman’s I Saw in Louisiana A Live-Oak Growing.    It was a good day, I hiked 13.5 miles. April 23, 2008 I have been out of cell phone coverage, so no calls to my wife means no information for her to input for the blog.  On Saturday, April 19 I came down to Erwin, TN and met my wife for a weekend.  Our dear friends, Chris & Tim, drove Cherie to Erwin for this visit.  It has been 7 weeks since I left on this journey; it was just wonderful to spend time with my “family”.  So April 19 & 20 were 0 days.  The next 120 miles are tough terrain.  I had a good day today, making it to Cherry Gap Shelter; that’s 12.2 miles today.     April 21 and 22, 2008 These were some crazy days.  All in all, I hiked only 10.5 miles.   April 19 & 20, 2008 0 days April 16, 2008 It was sunny and cold, cold, cold today.  The hike was tough at all elevations.  I am exhausted.  I did go 6.8 miles to the next shelter, Hogback Ridge Shelter.  Limited phone power left. April 15, 2008 I arose this morning to over 1 foot of snow.  The views are amazing with everything covered in snow.  I took several pictures.  Hiking was exhausting today—one step at a time.  I did make it 6.8 miles to Jerry Cabin Shelter. April 14, 2008 I hiked 8.5 miles to Little Laurel Shelter where I stopped to stay the night.  There was about 4 inches of snow and very windy by the time I got there.  I could not light my stove because of the wind, so I ate some pepperoni and cheese.  I got into my sleeping bag and tried to stay warm.   April 13, 2008 I hiked 14.7 miles today, climbing to over 3,700 feet.  The weather got colder and colder. I am so glad I ate a good breakfast with the homecooked food at the B&B, before I left.  We heard that a bear stole a hiker’s meal bag from his tree last night.   I got some magnificent pictures today.  It started snowing around 6 pm, so I decided I better set up camp.  Within 30 minutes the tarp on my tent was completed covered with snow.  It is cold, I am sleeping with every piece of clothing I have with me.   I am tired and not in the mood to face a bear tonight, so I hope that bear leaves me alone. April 12, 2008 I hiked only 4 miles to Hot Springs, NC, today.  I stopped at a diner for breakfast and had an omelet—wow, it was good!  I stayed at the Magnolia B&B, shared it with Coluso and Shiloh.  Very nice place!   I washed my clothes at the laundromat; it's always nice to have clean clothes.  I went to the outfitters’ store, as I needed a new heavy duty food bag and some supplies.   I also bought a kilt to wear when the weather gets warmer.  I bought some bananas, oranges and apples—I am craving fruit.  I ate them all in one afternoon!   I bought my honey a gift and had it mailed to her.  I had to hang out my tent and gear to get dry.  I caught my journal up and planned my trip for the week.  The “zero” day went so fast.   April 10, 2008 I got up at dawn and was on my way by 7 a.m.  It was a sunny, but cold day.  I climbed up to Max Patch, over 4,600 elevations.  The view from the summit-- which is gained by one of those much-steeper-than-it-looks-from-the-trailhead type hikes—is superb: at arm's length, the grassy earth falls away with 360 degree views just beyond; it seems a short stride would plummet you to the floor of the Tennessee Valley.  The view, phenomenal!   I made camp about 2 miles past Roaring Fork Shelter.  It was a long hard day of hiking, going 15 miles.  I am ready for my sleeping bag. April 9, 2008 This is a 0 day for me.  I had a good night at the Standing Bear Farm Hostel, hosted by Curtis and Rocky.  It was a very nice place, just a bit primitive.  The only facility is an outhouse.  I rose at 7 a.m.  I did my laundry in a tub with a washboard with a hang ringer.  There was a dryer, thank goodness.  I have a little swelling in my knee; but I am really feeling good.  I got supplies and got some good rest.   Last night, I attended my first AT Branding.  They took a hangar and made an A-T symbol and put it in the fire and branded Coma on his leg.  Coma was the only one crazy enough to do it; but we all enjoyed “his” experience. April 8, 2008 I left Tri Corner Shelter about 8:30 am.  It was a beautiful day; I really enjoyed the hike today.  I hiked 20 miles today – my record to date!  I arrived at Standing Bear Farm in Hartford TN at 7:30 pm tonight.  There is a hostel here.  I am now out of the Smokies; and I am really glad to have them behind me.  I am staying at the bunk house, cost is $15 which includes hot shower.  There are several hikers here including Windjammer and Bear Paw.  My ribs are feeling better.  I plan to take tomorrow as a 0 day so I can resupply and heal up. April 7, 2008 I hiked 5.6 miles and stayed the night at Tri Corner Shelter.  I had no cell phone coverage today. April 6, 2008 I hiked 7.8 miles and stayed the night at Pecks Corner.  I had no cell phone coverage today. April 5, 2008 It is still rainy, cold and foggy.  I met two ladies who are 61 years old. They are doctors from Chattanooga.  They were day hiking, getting in shape to climb the Himalayas.  I stopped and chatted with them for about an hour.  I hiked 8 miles and arrived at Icewater Spring Shelter about 2:30 pm.  There were already 5 hikers there.  The next shelter is almost 8 miles, so I need to stop even though it is early.  While in the National Park, if you solo camp, you can be fined $125.  That is why so many have stopped so early.  I lost my spoon so I am going to have to carve a spoon to eat my exciting dinner tonight. April 4, 2008 I left on the shuttle to Clingman’s Dome about 10:00 a.m.  I am really glad I took a day off at Gatlinburg.  I finally told my wife that I had fallen the day before I arrived at Gatlinburg and had cracked a rib.  I know cracked and broken ribs, as I raced cars for many years as a young man and had my share of crashes and my share broken ribs.  Broken ribs need time to heal, there is nothing I can do—only accept the pain.  If I saw a doctor, he would tell me to take time off the trail.  I am going to march on.  The devil is just trying to stop me from my dream to make it to Katahdin.  It was another cold and rainy day, and I am still hiking in fog.  I know there is beauty out there.  I wish I could see it.  I am doing about 1 mile per hour because it is wet and slippery and ribs continue to hurt.  I cannot put pressure on my right pole; I feel it in my ribs.  I arrived at Deep Gap Shelter, going about 5 miles today.  I ate and lay down to sleep  April 2, 2008 I hiked a hard 14 miles today.  I enjoyed the good weather, so good to have sunshine.  I am finally warmed up.  There is no wind.  It is calm and so beautiful.   I feel really strong today.  I am so ready to paint as I have seen so many unusual colors.  There was a plant that was maroon and red; it just blew me away.  I took pictures of it.  I am going to make that color when I do my Appalachian Series.    I reached Clingman’s Dome late in the afternoon.  It rises 6,643 feet above the Great Smoky Mountains and is the highest point along the AT and provides a 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains.    Anyone who knows me understands my love and knowledge for the Civil War.  So, Clingman’s Dome was named after the Civil War General / US Senator, Thomas Lanier Clingman, a prospector who obtained much wealth from the timber and minerals of this region. Clingman originally measured Mount Mitchell as the highest peak, which of course it is, at an elevation of 6,684 feet, but Dr. Elisha Mitchell also made this claim and after much debate and a decade later Mitchell went back to remeasure the mountain and fell to his death at the base of what is now known as Mitchell Falls.   Coma and Leaping Turtle were already at Clingman’s Dome when I arrived.  There was a family at the observation tower there.  We visited with the family; they shared sandwiches and apples with us.  Then they offered to take us to Gatlinburg; but we had to ride in the back of the pickup truck about 25 miles.  We thought that would be great; we did not have to pay for a shuttle to go down to Gatlinburg.  It was a cold ride.    The three of us decided to share a hotel in Gatlinburg and take the shuttle back to the trail tomorrow.  In the morning, we need to resupply and wash our clothes.  April 1, 2008 ,I hiked 9.6 miles today and stayed at Derrick Knob Shelter but pitched my tent—don’t like those rodents running around in the shelter.  Sun was out all day so I finally got everything dried. March 31, 2008 It rained all night and was very windy.  I am so happy that my tent stayed dry inside.  Packing and carry a wet tent is no fun.  There is a huge cloud dropping moisture all around. It has rained all day.  I hiked 2.5 miles to Russell Field Shelter. There was a bear cage around it—another Kodak moment!  I took a break here about 1 pm.  It has stormed and poured rain all day.  The trail was so muddy, I kept sliding down.  One step forward, two steps backward.  My Achilles tendon is hurting today.  Shin splits have appeared now.   I hiked another 3.7 miles to Spencer Field Shelter.  It is about 3:30 pm.  I cannot go another 6.5 miles to Derrick Knob Shelter so I am stopping here for the night—6.2 miles today. There are signs up stating “absolutely no tenting”.  The weather is so nasty, a shelter is good.    Windjammer and Bear Claw came into shelter this afternoon also.  Windjammer is 34 today so we sang “Happy Birthday”.   Well, Leaping Turtle came into the Shelter about 6 p.m.  The Shelter was full, I gave him my space in the shelter because everything Leaping Turtle had was soaked and he needed it more than me.    So I pitched my tent beside the Shelter.  Still raining and gushing winds tonight.  I have my tent tied down good.   March 30 I climbed into the middle of the clouds today—it was very eerie.  Many times I almost lost the trail because of the clouds/fog.   I pushed harder today than any other day—I have to stay on pace to get through the Smokies because of my food supply.  I hiked 14.1 miles today.  I had to pass up Mollies Ridge Shelter as there were already 14 people there. They had plastic over the door to keep the wind out.  I hiked about two more miles and camped out.  I had camp set up by 7 p.m.  I was very, very tired and very hungry. It was rainy and very windy.  I fixed my tent so I could hold onto it from the inside.  I think I would prefer to camp out than in the shelter after my experience with all the mice.  Uuuggg! March 29, 2008 I slept in today, enjoyed the nice bed and hot, hot shower.  My strained hip is feeling better.  I have decided to take a 0 day and plan for my trek to Gatlinburg which is over 60 miles from here, so I need to purchase enough food to last me.  I went to the store and had to have potato chips and orange drink for breakfast—it's amazing what you crave.  I have lost more than 30 pounds in my first month on the trail.  It is a rainy cold day.  I had dinner with Rain and Barley who are MIT grads.  I have really enjoyed meeting so many interesting people on this adventure. March 28, 2008 I have arrived at Fontana Dam after 13.6 miles of hiking, arriving after 6 p.m.  Here I have to register and get a permit to go through the Great Smokey Mountains National Park.  I also need to resupply.  Pops and I are sharing a hotel.  There is no cell phone coverage so I had to purchase a calling card to call my wife—my biggest supporter. March 27, 2008  Another day of steep climbing.  I think I am climbing to heaven.  I am very pleased to have hiked 16.8 miles today because it was another day of straight up the mountain. I arrived at Brown Gap Shelter after dark. This shelter is an old, old log cabin like one that I would think Daniel Boone would have lived in.  This is another Kodak moment.  There is a small stream but it is a little hike to get to the water.  I plan to leave at day break in the morning, so I got my water supply for tomorrow.  I am wiped out; my body is ready to hit the sleeping bag. The Privy was made of 4 posts up in the air with a roof.  It had a wooden bench with a commode lid on it.  I felt like the King with the 30 mile an hour winds coming through  as I sat on this bench. I strained my hip today. I had muscle cramps in both legs with my toes drawing up for more than an hour tonight  Then the mice…I felt something run across my neck, I grabbed my light, there were mice everywhere and lots of brown spiders.  I did not get much sleep tonight, March 26, 2008 I had a wonderful breakfast buffet at NOC before starting my trek.  I purchased “Glide” at NOC for my chap on my legs, which are scabs over scabs.  This “Glide” is like mini deodorant, like silicone so my pants won’t rub against my legs.  It made such a difference today—finally some relief!!  I climbed straight up all day.  It was a nice day, about 50 degrees with overcast skies. However, on top of the mountain, I felt I was in the sky.  As I looked down at the NOC, the stream running through it looked like a thread.  I took many pictures from this vantage point.  What views!!   I reached Sassafras Gap Shelter about 3:30.  There is a nice stream here.  I prepared my campsite, putting my bag up in the tree away from the bears.  I hiked 7.7 miles today.  Leaping Turtle passed up this shelter and hiked on up the mountain.  Pops, Windjammer and Bear Paw stopped here.  So I will have company tonight at camp.    I was really hungry, so I fixed one of my “mountain house” meals—beef stroganoff—it was to die for!!  One thing I have learned is that your diet is very important; nutrition is so important.  Other hikers have introduced me to “mountain house” meals which are freezed dried—light for packing and easy to fix.  I am going to try to eat one every other day.   It is getting windy, so tonight will be another cold one. March 24, 2008 Big thank you to Apple Trail Angel for letting some of us stay in his tent last night.  Leaping Turtle and Pops made it to the tent, also.  Apple had a fire burning. I ate five hot dogs!!  So tasty!  What a treat!   When I got up this morning it was snowing.  All the water was frozen.  I climbed straight up Wasser Bald. I thought I would never get to the top of this mountain.  I hiked in snow and ice—had to be careful with every step—had to place each foot solidly so I would not slip.  I felt as if I was cross country skiing instead of hiking.  At the top of the mountain, it was a tremendous sight—I took a picture.  There was a snow storm coming straight at me—an amazing sight.   I arrived at the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) after 6:00 p.m.  I had to really push the last 2 hours to get there.  I am totally drained and my right knee is in pain.  Coming down Wasser Bald was difficult, as it was like putting brakes on all the time with the ice and snow, so my knees took a lot of punishment. But, I went 13.8 miles today.  I'm proud of this. March 23, 2008  Long hiking day—2 hours and 13 miles to Cold Spring Shelter.  It was a sunny and cold day, but it was a dry day.  I was about 3 hours into my day, when there was Trail Angel Carol, set up along the trail with hot coffee and cinnamon rolls for the hikers.  Wow!  Wow! Wow!  Hot coffee—it was the best!  Thank you Trail Angel Carol!!   As I made it into Cold Spring Shelter about 8:30 p.m. in the dark and very cold, there was Trail Angle Apple, who had a big tent set up for hikers to stay in.  How nice! I did not have to put up my tent and set up camp.  Thank you Trail Angel Apple.   Tomorrow will be another long day of hiking as I must go 13 miles to the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC).  It is to start snowing tomorrow morning, so the hike may be slow, but I look forward to getting to the NOC for a hot, hot shower.   Kudos to the Trail Angels! March 22 I climbed up on the yellow school bus early this morning, and Ron Haven drove me to the place he picked me up from.  Another day of up and down the mountains I had my 1st Trail Magic today–a woman standing on top of Winding Stair Mountain waiting for me.  She gave me a bag with a boiled egg, snickers bar and chocolate Easter eggs.  Then as I was climbing down Winding Stair Mountain on the other side—at the waterfall, there was Capri Sun All Natural Sport Berry Ice floating in the stream so I reached down and got one.  Thanks Trail Angels. I hiked 9 miles to the Cold Spring Shelter, an old shelter.  I have a nice water supply here.  I am ready to eat my noodles tonight.  I have placed my food bag up in the tree from the bears.  It will be in the teens tonight, but it is dry.  I need to have a good hiking day on Sunday because Monday is rain again.  I am looking forward to getting to NOA by Monday afternoon. March 19 and 20 It has rained for two days and two nights.  I had to climb Albert Mountain which was just ledge after ledge; it was really a technical climb.  I fell once and tore a hole in my backpack. I am so lucky that was the only damage on this Mountain.  I came across a fellow hiker who was in hypothermia sitting on a rock.  I gave him some electrolytes for his water and gave him some food.  He and I slowly made it to Big Spring Shelter where we stayed the evening of March 19.  The wind howled and the rain poured through the roof of this shelter.  My sleeping bag was soaked.  My boots and water were frozen.  I am just totally soggy.  We reached Franklin after 6 miles and 3 hours of hiking today.  Thank heavens for Ron Haven and his yellow school bus.  He drove us around town to get supplies as I am totally out of food and I must patch the hole in my backpack.  We are going to share a Budget Inn tonight and split the costs.    The only weather I have not experienced is a sandstorm and a hurricane; I am ready for anything!  My attitude is undaunted, I am going to K.  As Winston Churchill put it, “If you think you’re going through hell, keep going, as it is your only way out.”   Leaping Turtle is at Franklin with Brush Strokes.  Leaping Turtle had some comments on the harrowing experience of Albert Mountain, 5,250 feet up in rain and fog, slippery as the dickens.  Leaping Turtle says that water is hard to get to, one day he climbed up a cliff and got a five foot icicle and melted it to get water—it worked.  He just had to have his noodles! March 18, 2008 I woke up at 4:00 a.m. with wind and rain tearing at my tent.  As I broke camp, I could see my breath—it was cold!  I climbed Indian Mountain in the freezing rain today.  I am so wet and tired.  About 4:30 p.m. I reached Carter Gap Shelter.  I am staying inside this shelter tonight.  Two other hikers are here, each of them have slipped and hurt their ankles today.  It was demanding today with the freezing rain; I am so very lucky I did not slip bad enough to hurt myself.  I believe I hiked a little over 9 miles today.   I really need to get to Franklin, as I need supplies and my cell phone is now dead.  My battery pack on my cell is weak; and I cannot get much coverage.  So I am only able to talk this few minutes to Cherie. March 9, 2008 I have re-supplied my food.  Have a nice warm vest and jacket and started out on my day’s journey.  I hiked 8 miles today.  I am one mile past Whitley Gap Shelter.  It was a great hike today.  I am so glad I bought Gaiters at the last stop; it has made a big difference keeping rocks out of my shoes.  The view is phenomenal.  The scenery is breathtaking. I took several pictures from the top of this mountain.  I have earned the right of passage to see this beauty.  I feel infinite, humbled.  I am camping out tonight for the first time.  There is bear dung all round, so I will put my food up in the tree.  It took me one minute to put up my tent and 30 minutes to put the tarp over it.  Around and around I went, it would have been a hoot to watch me.  I am going to cook some noodles tonight and snuggle down—it is still very cold. March 8, 2008 Had a good night’s sleep at Neels Gap.  The hot shower and standing by the heater has really helped my ankle and thigh.  I am taking a 0 day, staying here at Neels Gap today.  There are snow squalls and visability is nil.  All hikers are taking today as a 0 day because of the weather.  I had to buy a down jacket at the store; with the wind chill, temps around 0 degrees.  When I went to the store this morning, Wenton (owner of store) asked for my trail name.  I told him “Brush Strokes”; he said he had been following me on my web site “myxolydian.com”.  He had seen some of my paintings there.  Today he commissioned a painting from my Trail Series that I will paint when I return home to Wilmington, NC.  He also offered to sell prints from my series at his store.  I am considering donating a percentage from my sales from the Trail Series to help maintain the trail.  I am working at this hostel to pay for my cabin today.  So far, I have installed a door in the main lodge.  I plan to leave early in the morning, I am ready to hit the trail again.  Am I ever ready to paint! March 7, 2008 Had a bear outside my tent last night.  I stayed still, he went on.  I had hung my food up, so the bear did not get it.  Then I felt something in the bottom of my sleeping bag—eeeeeek, a mouse.  Got him out, but didn't sleep well.  Hiked about 8 miles today to get to Neels Gap.  The weather changed quickly today—very cold and stayed foggy all day.  The winds howled through the mountains. I look back at my stay at the hostel at Woods Gap, Josh and Lee who run this hostel were so good and helpful. They explained how to strap my pack down, which has made today really better on my back.  Thanks Josh & Lee!  My sprained ankle and bruised thigh will welcome the night at Neels Gap I know not to eat too much for dinner. March 6, 2008 Enjoyed last night at the hostel.  Ate some pizza got sick.  Did laundry—feels good to have clean, dry clothes.  Boots dried out—Yea!!  It felt weird to sleep in a bed.  Still thinking about yesterday, the view from Cedar Mountain was phenomenal with tremendous colors – could see Springer Mountain.  Hard to believe I scaled that mountain.  The swelling in my hand has gone down; I still cannot move my index finger.  I have repacked by backpack for the 50th time, taking some things out and shipping them home.  The backpack is taking a toll on my back.  I keep quoting to myself, "Bones will heal. Pain is temporary. Chicks dig scars. Glory lasts forever."  This keeps me motivated!  "G" is still here waiting for transportation home; he is in terrible pain with his ribs.  Lil Mac and Mr. Clean made it to the hostel this morning.  Mr. Clean has hurt his back due to the weight of his pack and has decided to go home.  Lil Mac has not decided yet whether to track on or go home with Mr. Clean.  I feel I am getting stronger by the day.  I have a cadence I do as I march up the mountains, "1 mile, no sweat; 2 miles, what the heck; 3 miles, I can do it; 4 miles, nothing to it; I can go all the way, driving on every day".   We had a nice pancake breakfast to start the day.  I started my trek at 10:00 am; I am not sure if I can get to the next shelter before the rains come.  It is 1 p.m., I have been hiking for 3 hours and am half way to the top of Blood Mountain.  I slid about 3-4 feet down the side of a cliff and tore off my toe nail—trying not to think about it as I sent my first-aid kit home this morning. I could hear something in front of me; I thought I may be catching up with a hiker….then I saw bear tracks – 8 inches wide – big feet!  So I slowed down a little as I did not want a bear as a hiking partner.  I am sitting on a log, it is beautiful, enlightening and very spiritual.  I am really getting to know myself.  I plan to make it Neels Gap to settle in for the heavy rains due tomorrow.  I have hiked 8 miles to Woods Hole Shelter, it is 6 pm.  The weather is quickly getting worse with cold blowing winds and fog. It is another 4 miles to Neels Gap, not going to make it tonight.  There is a stream here so I can get plenty of water to drink.  I plan to arise early tomorrow and, weather permitting, hike the 4 miles to Neels Gap.  The night at the hostel really helped me, feeling good. March 5, 2008 Got up this morning, clothes on tree frozen—broke them loose and put them on.  I want to keep my one set of clothes dry so I repacked them carefully.  My shoes were frozen – had to beat them on the ground to be able to put them on.  My water in my water bottle was frozen so it is below 32.  Another fellow reached the shelter last night late.  He had dumped his food at his last stop because of the weight of the back pack so I shared 2 Mac & Cheese w/him.  My food supply is getting low.  Left Gooch Gap at 8:00 this morning.  I plan to hike 12 miles to the next shelter with taking a break at Woods Hole.  I am feeling stronger today.  If I can get through yesterday in the sleet and rain and slipping and sliding, I know I can get to Katahdin Mountain.  I still have a great attitude. The colors here are unbelievable. As I made it up Cedar Mountain, I heard bears growling.  I kept moving.  At the top of the mountain was a wonderful view, first picture taking moment.  I made it to Woods Hole Shelter.  I am so cold from wearing wet clothes and boots all day.  About half-mile off the trail is a hostel where I am staying this evening with a bunk bed.  I can dry out my clothes and boots.  My feet are swollen and white from hiking in wet socks and boots.  A hiker name “G” also came to the hostel; he slipped and fell on a ledge today. He went to the hospital and has cracked ribs; he can't carry his back pack for 4 to 6 weeks – he will be leaving in the morning to return home to Madison, WI.  Besides me, there are 4 other hikers at this hostel. Looking forward to a safe and sound sleep tonight.  Tomorrow is to be sunny, planning to start out at 7:30 to hike nearly 8 miles to Neels Gap where I will get some food supplies.  I learned that power bars are the best on the trail. You do not have to stop and fix anything – just pull them out of your pocket. I am going to get stash of them tomorrow.  There is a rain storm predicted for Thursday night and all day Friday.  This is not a WALK IN THE WOODS. March 4, 2008 Traveled only 6 hours to Gooch Gap on Tuesday.  Went through 50-mile gusts of wind, fog and gushing water coming down the mountain from the blinding, sideways rain.  Several places in the trail had water 6 to 8 inches deep.  It rained 10 hours today.  Met “Mule” on the trail, a young man from my hometown of Chillicothe—how ironic.  I had stopped for a break, took my backpack off and rain water from the hood in my rain suit went down my back.  I had my rain hat on, not using the hood.  I sat and laughed at myself.  I slid on a wet ledge and sprained my left hand and left ankle.  Must keep moving.  Arrived at Gooch Gap soaked through and through.  Everything got wet in the back pack except for the extra set of clothes and towel which were tripled wrapped.  Dried off with the towel (so good to have) and changed into dry clothes, hung wet clothes on tree.  Settled into my sleeping bag with 4 small heat packs to get me warm.  Thank you Cherie for insisting I get those heat packs. March 3, 2008 It was brutal to get up this morning as I left at 7 a.m.—I have been challenged!!  I am trying to hike to Hawk Mountain Shelter today as it has been getting darker and winds are gusting.  The weather is changing quickly.  To have rain, sleet and then snow tonight, so I need to get to the shelter to be protected.  Still going up mountains—climbed 3 mountains today, going about ? miles per hour.  Water is a problem.  Last spring was dry—must conserve water today.  I am soaking up the scenery—I wish I could get some paints in my hand. March 2, 2008 Every inch of body aches.  It is 8 a.m.  What a feeling to stand on top of Springer Mountain – I can appreciate it today.  I went to the stream and got a supply of water and started on my hike to the next shelter—Stover Creek.  The terrain is rough with two fast moving streams (knee deep) to cross.  I am definitely in the middle of the wilderness.  There are no markings, no footprints—I must use the map.  The rocks are moss covered and there are tunnels of plants to go through, very dark.  I sat down on a log to rest, and I rolled straight back and was looking at the sky, my back pack is so heavy, It just rolled me backwards—I laid there laughing.  There are bear warnings everywhere. I saw a beautiful eagle today.  It took me 5 hours to go 2.8 miles today.  It is 1 p.m., and I am stopping to eat something warm and rest my weary body.  I am mentally strong; but my body needs some adjustments.  It is cold tonight; I put all my clothes on to sleep.  I very much appreciate my equipment; so glad my stove works well. March 1, 2008 So It Begins! This is the day I have prepared for.  Ate of good breakfast at the Lodge.  Drove down the mountain to the Visitors Center and registered as a through hiker on the AT.  My back pack weighed in at 45 pounds.  Several hikers are registering and leaving today.  The beginning of the trail has a stone arch over it with stone path for 10 feet then you are on the trail up, up the mountain—straight up the mountain—left at 9:05 a.m.  This was the hardest thing I have ever done.  It took me 8 hours to go 8.5 miles to the 1st shelter (a lean-to).  No time on this trail to stop and eat.  Did drink all my water early on.   When I reached this 1st shelter, there were 2 young guys there.  I was too tired to eat; I ate a few bites of pepperoni and got into my sleeping bag.  It was cold, probably in the 20’s.    I started shaking, head ache and torturous leg cramps—I am dehydrated.  Another man, Bear Man, arrived at the shelter; he went down to the stream and got me some water which helped so much.  Bear Man was hiking with his 2 sons; but had gotten separated from them.  His sons had the food so I gave him some of my food.  Did not sleep much. March 1, 2008 Springer Mountain, GA—James makes his way to the Trail Head, a eight mile hike from the Forest Service Road 42 in the North Georgia Mountains, then it starts uphill. The trail, at least in this area, is actually the original AT footpath. James will take it easy at first, probably hiking only 12 or 15 miles the first day. "It's going to be strange to go six months without painting. Since I paint everyday, it's going to be very different for me. I've brought along a sketch pad and I'll put down ideas for paintings to make when I get back. I think this will be a very spiritual experience for me. I'm hiking by myself, so that I can get to know myself. I want to experience nature as close as possible, without man's influence and technology. Just as I see myself as a pure artist, I want to be a pure hiker." "This has been a massive undertaking. I have spent almost two years pulling together the equipment I need and training. I have read many AT books. My favorite was A Walk In The Woods by Bill Bryson. I've talked to many hikers that have attempted the trail and a few through-hikers that actually made the entire journey. I know it is not going to be easy, but I'm ready." "I will try and keep you informed as I make my way. Don't be alarmed if a period of time passes and you don't see any up dates. I will come off the trail, usually a side hike of 10 to 20 miles each way, to restock my supplies. This is when I will report in and my Blog will be updated. Thanks for your interest in this personal challenge." February 29, 2008 7:30 a.m. packed and ready to drive to Springer Mountain.  After 2 years of planning and 7 months of working out at the YMCA, I feel I am mentally and physically ready.  I left my dogs, Jackson, Noah and Houdini at our dog setter, Stacy, last night.   I will miss these dogs so much.  Stopped at Port City Coffee Shop for a coffee for the drive of nearly 8 hours to Amicacola Falls State Park. 5:07 arrived at Amicalola Falls State Park, cold and rainy.  Met Andrea, Park Ranger at the Visitors Center where AT Hikers are to register; however, it had just closed so I will have register tomorrow morning.  It is a beautiful drive up the long, long road to the top of Springer Mountain to the Lodge where my wife and I will stay this evening. I ate a fine meal of seafood at the Lodge.  I spent until 12:10 a.m. packing and re-packing my back pack; it was just too heavy.  Making decisions of what is necessary and what is not was so difficult.  I decided to take enough food for 5 days instead of 30 days and only 2 liters of water instead of 4 liters. February 28, 2008 Wilmington, NC—James Davis is getting his hair cut today. It's important that the hiker begin his journey with a skinned head and no facial hair. This prevents ticks from hiding. Since James has sported long hair and a full beard for many years, it will be a shock to all who see him around town before he leaves for Georgia. Yes, we’ll get pictures and maybe show you.... OK, there you are. Wow, Telly, you look good! Met at Market Street Saloon for a last hooray with friends, Todd, Mike, Hap, Karen, Tim, Chris, Arthur and my lovely wife, Cherie.  The leader of the house band, Scott, welcomed me and wished me luck.  My good friend, Arthur Shuey, played his blues harp on this very special last evening in Wilmington. February 26, 2008 Provisions Backwoods Shop folks have been so supportive and helpful with my planning as I purchased all my gear locally from them.  I cannot say enough how helpful Tim, David, Robert – all the folks there have been.  They have played a huge role in preparing me for this adventure. February 25, 2008 Since I have been referred to as the Unofficial Mayor of Wilmington, I met with Bill Saffo early in the month.  We had a usefull discussion and I left him in charge of the city until my return. February 24, 2008 Artist Derek Crenshaw and his wife, Brenda had a bon voyage dinner on Sunday for me with some friends.  Not only is Derek is a great artist, he is a great chef!  Each friend took a hike around the living room with my backpack loaded with gear.  What fun!  We ended the night breaking the giant chocolate chip cookie baked with love by Karen, Wyatt and Stew Willard. © Copyright 2008 James Davis. May not be used for publication without express permisssion of the author. All rights reserved.